I hardly know where to begin to describe my experience in León. Other than the first night, when I stayed at Hostal Don Raúl (which was cheap and friendly, but lacked internet), both times I've been in León I've stayed at Hostal Tortuga Booluda. I had gone out in search of an internet cafe. Seeing several young people with backpacks (who turned out to be from Sweden), I asked them if they knew where I could find one. They said they were on their way to Hostal Tortuga Booluda, which has wifi. Although there were no dorm beds available that night, Santos, who was working at the reception desk, told me I could use my laptop there. In the common area I saw photos of Che Guevara on the walls, and heard some wonderful reggae and Cuban music -- and I knew this was the place where I wanted to stay.
The following day I arrived early and got a dorm bed. Only three and a half blocks from the Central Park, La Tortuga Booluda has been the perfect place for me. (This video, taken by a traveler, will give you an idea of what the place is like.) Of course, much of the ambiance of a hostel is created by the people who stay there. I've been very lucky to have met some amazing people here. They come from all over the world and have enriched my experience with their stories of their lives and travels. We've had some great conversations about the politics of Nicaragua -- a fascinating topic. Some of these people are now FaceBook friends, and I follow their travels as they post photos and commentaries.
I would have to say, though, that my most interesting experience has been getting to know Maria. As I was looking at a large mural, full of historical and revolutionary symbolism, covering the walls of two buildings on the north and east sides of the plaza across the street from the cathedral, Maria approached me, notebook in hand, and offered to show me some of the important sites connected with the Sandinista revolution. We spent the next couple of hours wandering the streets of León. We toured a jail where Anastasio Somoza's army tortured prisoners. Maria showed me buildings damaged in the war, like the building with rectangular openings, used by the army to shoot from (turned into a school, Escuela Taller de León Pepe Escudero, after the Sandinistas took over) and a church blasted to smithereens by Somoza's forces.
Escuela Taller de León Pepe Escudero (left)Bombed church (right)
Maria explained what it was like during the war so that I could almost feel what it must have been like to live through those years. She speaks no English, and my Spanish is very basic; but she was so perceptive, catching every look of confusion that crossed my face when I didn't understand what she was saying, and re-phrasing her explanation until I got it.
Over coffee at Cafe Rosita, I learned about Maria's life (which will be the subject of another post), and began to think about how I could help her. That was the beginning of what I call el proyecto 'coche de hot dogs' -- Maria's hot dog stand. I could have donated the equivalent amount of money to one of the foreign-based organizations engaged in charitable works here (and I don't deny the need for these -- in fact, there should be more); but it has been an immensely satisfying experience to have been personally involved in providing Maria with a means of making a decent living. This little project has created a bond between us that will last throughout the years, sustained by our weekly emails and, I hope, my occasional visits.
To be continued ...
Peace
No comments:
Post a Comment